“A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step.” ― Lao Tzu
- Sunrise from my bedroom at Corazon Puro
The first day of my Camino begins with a beautiful sunrise seen from the tiny balcony of my room at Albergue Corazon Puro. (Note: The original Corazon Puro is no longer in operation.)
Surprisingly, when I join the other pilgrims downstairs, breakfast is a Spanish version of Wheaties. I suppose that eating “the breakfast of champions” isn’t entirely inappropriate on the first day of a 481 mile journey by foot from southern France to the northwest coast of Spain. Toast and jam, a tiny cake, and little “cow” cheese wedges comprise the rest of the meal. Being accustomed to eating protein every morning, usually two eggs over-easy, I am not thrilled, but I’ll survive. My plan is to get some kind of protein in St. Jean Pied de Port, which is where I will begin the Camino.
- Gate of St. James, built in the 15th century, leads to Rue de Citadelle through the old part of St. Jean

Elissa in St. Jean Pied de Port on Rue de la Citadelle after being dropped off just outside the gate by Barbara and Istvan from Corazon Puro.
…to find food, a bank, hiking poles, a postcard, and sunglasses (I was so disappointed when I realized I had left mine at home). My first stop was at a butcher shop to get that much-needed morning protein. I bought a local Basque salami that was recommended by the butcher, who spoke English (thankfully, since I couldn’t recall any of my high school French), and who told me that he has family in California. He threw in some jerky as well, which I decided to keep in my shoulder bag to munch on while hiking. Then I wandered around town looking for an inexpensive pair of sunglasses, which was more difficult than I would have imagined but gave me an opportunity to see a little more of St. Jean Pied de Port.
- A pilgrim disappearing down Rue de la Citadelle, St. Jean Pied de Port, Camino de Santiago

- At last I am ready to leave. I walk down the cobbled street, passing a charming view of the River Nive, and begin my journey with a single step…